Wednesday, February 8, 2012

A day on the town in Bangkok

I took a multi-modal trip from the Baan Thai House in Ayutthaya to Centre Point Silm in Bangkok.  A tuk-tuk took me and my luggage to the mini-van station in the center of town. From there we (my baggage counted for an extra passenger) went to Victory Monument in Bangkok. The van stopped several times along the way to pick up and discharge passengers, but made the trip in slightly over an hour. At Victory Monuument, I hailed one of the many passing taxis. The driver looked at the address (in English and Thai) of my destination and decided either he didn't know where it was or he didn't want to go there. The second driver looked at it and quoted me a price of 300B, off the meter.  That is what I had budgeted for this leg and so accepted.  Traffic was heavy so it took probably longer than he thought. He also got into the area and had to circle the block. I tipped him and extra 40B and he was genuinely grateful.
The whole trip cost 500B, which was one-third of the taxi from the airport to Ayutthaya.
Bangkok from my room at Centre Point Silom
I was ushered to a 21st floor apartment with a river and city view. Which you can see in the picture. I stayed at Centre Point Silom on my last visit to Bangkok, and like it for its location and relatively low cost for all the amenities. Go to www.tripadvisor.com to read my reviews.
I really had no further plans for the afternoon, so went to the pool, swam and read for about an hour. At about 5:00 PM, I decided to walk to the Mandarin Oriental to have a sunset beer by the river.  That's the nice thing about the Centre Point Silom, you can enjoy the Mandarin's high priced beers ($10) without paying for their high priced rooms ($300+).  I walked the few short blocks to the Mandarin and took some pictures along the way.  The doorman at Centre Point had told me how to get there ( walk to 40 soi (alley)) or I would not have known otherwise.  There are no signs where 40 soi leaves the main road, and there are none on the hotel. I saw a building that looked like a hotel and asked and sure enough it was.
Fruit stand on the street












Typical Bangkok traffic

On the terrace of the Mandarin enjoying my beer
After renting a seat on the terrace at the prime sundown hour, I returned to Centre Point and dressed "smartly casual" (clean shirt) for my dinner at the Blue Elephant Restaurant.  The desk at the hotel had advised that I take the Skytrain one stop, rather than a taxi as it would be much quicker with the traffic at dinner hour.  I walked one block to the Skytrain station and climbed the stairs and paid my 15B for a ticket. The Blue Elephant is right at the next station so I couldn't get lost. It is in a Sino-Portugese house.  This is the Bangkok outpost of a chain of Thai restaurants that started in Brussels and spread east through Europe and the mid-east before finally opening in Thailand.  The prices are steep compared to most in Thailand, but certainly not off-putting for someone in a major city in the US or even Santa Barbara.  Read my review at www.tripadvisor.com.   After a thoroughly delightful dinner, I returned to the hotel by the Skytrain and as I reached the door was greeted by a fireworks display at an adjacent building (maybe the Mandarin).   Finally, I went upstairs and went to be for my last full night in Asia.
Night  vegetable market on the way to the Skytrain

Blue Elephant Restaurant

Skytrain Station

Late night fireworks






Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Wat I've Been Doing - Feb 05 - Feb 07

I have not kept up my Vietnam and Cambodia trip blog for two reasons. First, I lost my wallet in Ha Noi and had to spend time getting replacement credit cards, etc. and Second, the tour just kept me too busy to write anything after downloading all the pictures I took every day.  I'm now off the tour and on a short tour of my own in Ayutthaya, Thailand.  This is an old capital that was a thriving metropolis until 1767, when the Burmese attacked it forcing the capital to move to what is now Bangkok.

In any event, when it was thriving there were a large number of temples (wats) built to honor Buddha. Some are still standing and some are just piles of stone and bricks now.There is no doubt in my mind after this trip that Buddha set off a building spree in South East Asia that more than rivals the cathedral building in Europe in the middle ages.  This was in about the same period with both Angkor in Cambodia in the 10th -12 th centuries and Ayutthaya in the 13th to 18th.

Baan Thai House
I arrived in Bangkok at about 10 PM after a flight from Phnom Penh. Being 75 has some advantages as there is a priority immigration line in the airport for those over 70.  They took extra pity on me and shunted several of us into the diplomatic line, which was otherwise unused.  I stayed at the Novotel at Bangkok airport overnight and hired a taxi to take me for the 90 minute ride to Ayutthaya.  When I arrived, I checked in at the Baan Thai House and about 11:30 headed for town planning to rent a bike and tour the wats.  I was soon disabused of this notion by a tour guide who offered me his three hour tour for 600 baht (~$18).  After the tour was over, I was glad I had accepted.  The wats are spread over a large area which I never could have covered in three hours, if I hadn't died of heat prostration first. I recorded the tour on a GPS program on my iPhone and it was over 19 miles.

I will show a few of the sights I saw on the tour here.
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhorn

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhornption

Wat Chaiwatthanaram



The tour ended at 3:15 and I was exhausted, hot, and sweaty and the one bottle of water I had with me was almost enough.

Wat Lokayasutharam (Reclining Bhuddha)
 Some more wats from yesterday
Wat Worapho

Phra Monkhon Bophit

Phra Wihan
These pictures are about half of what I saw yesterday, and we didn't even begin to cover the territory. I think the guide forgot that I had bargained for three hours and he was taking me to more and more. Finally, I was too tired and hot to go any further at slightly after three hours and I asked him when the tour was going to end and was this all included for the 600 baht. No he said, I was into the fourth hour and I now owed him 800 baht. I was a little upset, which he noticed, and asked to be taken back to Baan Thai House, which we were fairly near at the time. I gave him 700B, which he accepted and we parted company. I retreated to my air conditioned haven to await the dinner hour.

After a dinner of Green Chicken Curry (very spicy) at the hotel, moderated by a bottle of Singha Beer and a dish of mocha chip ice cream, I retired to my room to download pictures and tag them with the names of the individual wats, which I had recorded on the way. 

The next day (Feb 07), I started out right after breakfast to go over to the main part of town, look around, and check out my ride back.  I had decided upon a minivan shuttle to the center of Bangkok, from where I could get a cab to my hotel.  I had read that they did not allow a lot of luggage and I have a 25" suitcase and a backpack. We agreed that the luggage would be a second passenger, which I suspected. The fare per passenger is only 60 Baht ($1.80), so all told, it would be less than one tenth of the taxi cost.

Getting from Baan Thai House to the center of town by foot involves walking about 700 meters to the ferry dock and taking the ferry across.  The ferry is 4 baht each way.  I walked through town and actually went out to a couple of the wats I saw yesterday.  I logged 5.6 miles of walking before lunch.  Here are some pictures from today.
Ferry across the river. This river flooded last fall and swept over my B&B which is quite a way away


Downtown Ayutthaya

Tourists on an elephant ride
Tuk-Tuk, which is a comon means of local transportation

Intercity bus to Bangkok


Thursday, January 19, 2012

Vietnamese Journey - Part I: January 17 (Home) to January 19 (Hanoi)


We had planned a trip to Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand in August; by December, Pat’s hip had become so painful that she felt that she would not be able to participate in the tour, which included several walking tours of cities. She insisted that I continue as planned, so on January 17th, I started to Los Angeles to board THAI Airways for the first leg of the trip. Traffic was light, so I arrived at the Hilton, where I parked my car and boarded the shuttle for the Bradley Terminal. I arrived about ten minutes before the counters opened to accept passengers for the flight.  Shortly I was relaxing in the lounge waiting for the boarding announcement.
Food Counter in Bangkok Airport
 
The first leg to Bangkok went smoothly. There is a period of about eight hours between the first and second of three meal servings on the flight and I was able to sleep fairly well through most of that. We arrived at Bangkok about 45 minutes ahead of schedule, so there was plenty of time to catch my flight to Hanoi. In Bangkok, transiting passengers had to go through another security check, but did not go through Immigration.
My first view of Ha Noi from the plane
The new terminal in Bangkok is immense, and I had to walk at least one km to change planes through long concourses filled with shops and restaurants. We boarded and were soon on our way to Hanoi (In Vietnam it is broken into two distinct words, Ha Noi).  On landing the field was totally socked in. The plane had had a short delay before takeoff and I wondered if that was to obtain a landing slot.
Intercontinental Hotel in Ha Noi
Then through Immigration and the walk through the Customs green lane and I was officially in Vietnam. I obtained Two million Dong (VND) at the ATM, or about $100. They really need to have a 1:1000 reverse split of their money here. The menus at the hotel and the taxi meters all assume the last three zeroes anyhow.  As instructed by my tour leader, who had sent me an email beforehand and the signs in the airport, I ignored the “independent” drivers in the claim area and went across the street to find a dispatcher.  He offered to take me to the hotel for $16, which was two dollars less than I had expected, if I paid US$.  I had planned for this and got in after telling him the hotel for the second time.  This is actually quite reasonable as it’s over 10 miles to the hotel from the airport.
I had told the hotel that I was arriving early, planning to store luggage and then go out. They actually had my room ready, so I took my luggage up. The view is not one of the better ones; whether that was because I was early or they save those for tour groups I don’t know. However, inside it was fine with a nice king bed and a large bath and plenty of room to stretch out.

Purchasing a tree for Tet

Taking a tree home for Tet

After I arrived, I decided to take a walk in the general direction of the restaurant where I had planned to have dinner. The Google map said it was about 2.5 miles, so I started out with my camera. As noted the fog, which I decided is smog, was dense, which sort of ruined the picture opportunities. I took some pictures of buildings and many of the traffic and the people going by on scooters. Most of the traffic consists of mopeds, scooters, or motorized bicycles, with a few cars thrown in for good measure.  There appears to be no traffic control. No lights, no stop signs, no police. A few times, I tried to cross a street. You need to wait for a break; good if it’s in both directions at the same time and then time your path through the break. Fortunately, the streets are narrow, barely wide enough for two cars.  After walking for a while, I decided that I wouldn’t make the restaurant by walking and turned home. The whole trip was about an hour and a half.
On the way from the airport and during my walk, I saw many people with small trees, mostly orange, on the  back of their scooters driving around. I guessed that this may have something to do with the upcoming Tet (New Year's )holiday. My guess was confirmed by an article in Friday’s Vet Nam News about the demand for plants for Tet.  It seems that there is a thriving business in these plants both for sale and rent. In HCMC (Saigon) a florist is renting plants “from 2m high for VND 20 to 35 million ($1,000 to $1,700). This price does include transportation.
I went back to the hotel, showered, did email, and went out to eat at about 5:30. Given my experience of the afternoon, I took a taxi.   It seemed to take forever and the ride was 100,000 VND ($5). Looking at the map this morning, I think he took the long way around the lake.  The trip back was only 40,000VND ($2), which was consistent with my expectations. As a matter of fact the way back was pretty familiar from my earlier walk.
Mushroom Hot Pot at Sen Tay Ho Restaurnt

The trip to the restaurant, which came at a busy period was just a little hectic. Every so often we would meet a car coming in our direction on a road that was only one car wide. There was a lot of light flashing and horn honking. The amazing thing is that between my walk and two taxi rides, there were no collisions. I think that oddly there is a certain restraint and that traffic doesn’t move very fast and that the drivers are used to this and are prepared.
I went to a restaurant called Sen Tay Ho. It is a large establishment with several dining floors. The host took me to an outside table in the buffet area. I think they have table service on the upper floors. The buffet was about $15 and a large bottle of local beer was a little over a dollar. The buffet was spread out over a large inside room and the outdoor porch where I was sitting. There was a large variety of shell fish, BBQ chicken, pork and fish, vegetables, spring rolls, and other local dishes.  I had a mushroom hot pot which had several kinds of mushrooms, vegetables, and meat in broth. It was hot both in temperature and spice, and I finished about half the bowl.  However there was plenty to eat and a large table of small French pastries for dessert. I was full when I left.

Interesting House overlookng the lake

Typical Ha Noi traffic

Interesting building and wetland

A foggy day across the lake